Greetings, volks. Welcome to Hohenfels Volks, THE place for our place! Well, so much for no snow here in Hohenfels.
Today were going to talk about the playback pages in your camera’s menu. Of course, this is part 4, so you can read the originals right here. Grab your manual and your camera and follow along as we get started.
Today we’ll cover the playback menu. There are 2 pages in this section; they’re the blue tabs. Starting with the first tab, we have:
Protect images- this setting can prevent images from being erased. If you format your card, they will be deleted. After entering playback menu, select protect images; scroll the images on your card and press set for the desired images. After you have protected the images you want protected, press menu.
Rotate- this setting allows you to rotate your image to the desired format, either landscape or portrait. You can do that here or in your set up for auto rotate. Select rotate, press set and scroll to the desired images. Pressing set will rotate the image to 90, then 270, then back to 0 degrees. When you finish rotating your images, press menu.
Erase images- this allows you to erase images. Press set. After that, you will need to choose all images, all images in folder, or select and erase images. Highlight select and erase images and press set. Scroll through your images and press set at each image when you have it visible. When selected for erasure, a check mark will appear on the image. Once you have finished selecting images, press the delete button, the one that looks like a trashcan, and the selected images will be deleted.
Print order- this selection allows you to make settings for Digital Print Ordering. You can change print type here- standard, index, or standard and index; you can also choose to have the date printed on the image. The last change you can make is to print the file number on the image. These settings are for all images when ordered through DPOF, and cannot be set per image.
Moving on to tab 2, we have the following:
Highlight alert- this selection is either enabled or disabled. When enabled, areas that are overexposed will blink between black and white. You can enter a negative amount in your exposure compensation setting and shoot again, or leave it as is. This is what some folks call the blinkies and means blown highlights. Blown highlights will lose detail, as they extend into zone 9 or better.
AF point disp.- this is another enabled or disabled choice. Setting it to enabled allows the auto focus point or points that achieve focus to lighten, indicating where in the image your focus is before shooting.
Histogram- this allows you to choose between brightness or RGB as your main histogram display when you select the info button. We’ll be covering histograms in another post, so I’m not going to cover it too much here.
Image jump- this allows you to choose your method of scrolling through images during playback. Your options are to scroll 1 at a time, 10 at a time, 100 at a time, by date, by folder on your card, or by movies or stills. I find 1 or date to be the most useful.
Next time we cover the menu, we’ll be going into Set up 1, the yellow tabs. This can be a fun area to work with. It allows some level of customization of your camera and how it interacts with you.
I hope this little article has been of help. Is everyone working on their shots for the theme? Remember, it’s all about repeating patterns this week. I hope we’ll see something impressive, and everyone out there doing something. I’m shooting black and white film now, hoping to see something good this weekend when I get some developed. I hope to have something to post come Monday! Enjoy the rest of your week and have fun shooting!
Don’t forget to post any of your images you’d like to see here at the Hohenfels Volks Facebook page. Of course, commenting on both Facebook and here is always appreciated, too!
Showing posts with label menu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label menu. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Thursday, January 5, 2012
What's On the Menu 3
Welcome back to Hohenfels Volks, THE place for our place! Given the weather in Hohenfels, we’re going to stay and learn some more about our cameras.
Today we're going back into the camera menu. The first 2 parts can be found here and here), so get ready to follow along in your manual and with your camera.
Today we’ll cover 2 tabs, one has 2 settings, and the other only has 6. Most of them I don’t worry too much about, as I’ve set mine up the way that works for me. You may want to try them and see what you do and don’t like, as with anything we’ve done so far.
Starting at Shooting Tab 3, we have 2 settings; the first is Dust Delete Data. This allows you to take a shot, and using the spots caused by any dust, append that data to your images. Canon’s DPP program will automatically delete the dust spots, based on the data obtained. To use this feature, take a white sheet of paper, set your lens to 50mm or longer, and your focus to infinity. When you select ok, then set, the sensor is cleaned, then you will need to fill the frame with the solid white sheet of paper, and shoot a shot from about 1 foot away. When the process is complete, all future shots will have that data appended and have those spots noted corrected in DPP.
The second setting on this tab is One-Touch RAW+JPEG. This tab allows you to shoot a RAW image if you’re only shooting JPG, or a JPG image if you’re only shooting RAW. This allows to you to get 2 different copies of the same image. Since I only shoot RAW, I never use this. Shooting RAW+JPEG takes more space and allows fewer images to be captured on your card.
Moving on to Shooting Tab 4, the first selection is Live View Enabled. This allows shooting with Live View. Live View allows you to shoot using your display instead of your viewfinder. The downsides of shooting in the mode are you can’t use the viewfinder, the sensor is exposed the entire time, and heat builds up from the sensor and displayed being powered up. There is another downside, as you will see on the next selection.
The next selection is AF Mode. This controls what type of auto-focus mode used. There are 3 choices. The first is Live Mode. This uses the live View screen for focusing, which is slower and less accurate. The second is Face Detection Live Mode. This uses a larger focus zone, and requires a face looking at the camera. Again, it is slower and can be less accurate. The third is Quick Mode. This allows focus using the same dedicated auto-focus sensor used during viewfinder shooting. This is quickest and most accurate when using Live View.
The next choice is Grid Display. This allows you to superimpose a grid on your screen. It’s useful for composing images, but not much else.
The fourth choice is Expo Simulation. Enabling this feature allows the screen brightness to vary according to your shot settings. It will get darker with less exposure set and brighter with more exposure set. It’s an artificial view, as the aperture doesn’t change, nor does the shutter.
The fifth choice is Silent Mode. There are 3 choices here. Mode 1, which allows for continuous shooting, with somewhat reduced noise, Mode 2 which means that you can only take one shot at a time, this minimizes noise, but requires release of the shutter button after every shot and disables continuous shooting, the last choice is Disabled. This mode is primarily for shooting with accessory lenses and non-Canon flashes.
The final choice for this tab is Metering Timer. This changes the amount of time your camera displays your exposure settings when taking a shot.
That’s the end of the shooting tabs. After these comes your playback tabs. We’ll cover them in future What’s On the Menu posts.
Enjoy the rest of your day, and remember to cast your vote for next week’s theme. Get yours in to have a say! Don’t forget to get your pics posted at the Hohenfels Volks Facebook page. Of course, commenting on both Facebook and here is always appreciated, too!
Today we're going back into the camera menu. The first 2 parts can be found here and here), so get ready to follow along in your manual and with your camera.
Today we’ll cover 2 tabs, one has 2 settings, and the other only has 6. Most of them I don’t worry too much about, as I’ve set mine up the way that works for me. You may want to try them and see what you do and don’t like, as with anything we’ve done so far.
Starting at Shooting Tab 3, we have 2 settings; the first is Dust Delete Data. This allows you to take a shot, and using the spots caused by any dust, append that data to your images. Canon’s DPP program will automatically delete the dust spots, based on the data obtained. To use this feature, take a white sheet of paper, set your lens to 50mm or longer, and your focus to infinity. When you select ok, then set, the sensor is cleaned, then you will need to fill the frame with the solid white sheet of paper, and shoot a shot from about 1 foot away. When the process is complete, all future shots will have that data appended and have those spots noted corrected in DPP.
The second setting on this tab is One-Touch RAW+JPEG. This tab allows you to shoot a RAW image if you’re only shooting JPG, or a JPG image if you’re only shooting RAW. This allows to you to get 2 different copies of the same image. Since I only shoot RAW, I never use this. Shooting RAW+JPEG takes more space and allows fewer images to be captured on your card.
Moving on to Shooting Tab 4, the first selection is Live View Enabled. This allows shooting with Live View. Live View allows you to shoot using your display instead of your viewfinder. The downsides of shooting in the mode are you can’t use the viewfinder, the sensor is exposed the entire time, and heat builds up from the sensor and displayed being powered up. There is another downside, as you will see on the next selection.
The next selection is AF Mode. This controls what type of auto-focus mode used. There are 3 choices. The first is Live Mode. This uses the live View screen for focusing, which is slower and less accurate. The second is Face Detection Live Mode. This uses a larger focus zone, and requires a face looking at the camera. Again, it is slower and can be less accurate. The third is Quick Mode. This allows focus using the same dedicated auto-focus sensor used during viewfinder shooting. This is quickest and most accurate when using Live View.
The next choice is Grid Display. This allows you to superimpose a grid on your screen. It’s useful for composing images, but not much else.
The fourth choice is Expo Simulation. Enabling this feature allows the screen brightness to vary according to your shot settings. It will get darker with less exposure set and brighter with more exposure set. It’s an artificial view, as the aperture doesn’t change, nor does the shutter.
The fifth choice is Silent Mode. There are 3 choices here. Mode 1, which allows for continuous shooting, with somewhat reduced noise, Mode 2 which means that you can only take one shot at a time, this minimizes noise, but requires release of the shutter button after every shot and disables continuous shooting, the last choice is Disabled. This mode is primarily for shooting with accessory lenses and non-Canon flashes.
The final choice for this tab is Metering Timer. This changes the amount of time your camera displays your exposure settings when taking a shot.
That’s the end of the shooting tabs. After these comes your playback tabs. We’ll cover them in future What’s On the Menu posts.
Enjoy the rest of your day, and remember to cast your vote for next week’s theme. Get yours in to have a say! Don’t forget to get your pics posted at the Hohenfels Volks Facebook page. Of course, commenting on both Facebook and here is always appreciated, too!
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
What's on the Menu Part II
Greetings, Hohenfels, welcome to Hohenfels Volks, THE place for our place. Another day, starting shrouded in mists and fog, ends on a light note, with blue skies and nice weather.
Let’s return to our series on your camera’s menu. (Part 1 is here)
Press the menu button, and you should be on the first tab. Using your multi-controller or command dial, scroll to the second tab, shooting2.
In order, the settings are as follows:
The Exposure compensation/AEB. This allows the camera to change either the shutter speed or aperture to bracket or compensate for exposure. Adjustments are made in 1/3-stop increments. 3 shots are taken, allowing you to choose the best-exposed shot. This is cancelled at power down.
Auto lighting optimizer. This allows dark or low contrast images to be corrected for in camera when shooting JPG. You can set the amount here, or if shooting RAW, in Canon’s Digital Photo Pro application.
White balance. This setting allows you to select what color temperature to use for your white balance. By selecting the right one, whites will be white, and so on. Color balance can be quicker when the right selection is made. Refer to the post on color balance here.
Custom White balance. By using a custom white balance, you ensure proper whites in all shots taken in that specific lighting. Take a photo of a white object in the lighting you will use for your photo then select that image as your custom white balance source. This allows a more accurate setting of color balance tailored for the specific situation.
White balance shift/BKT. This one is a don’t play with it setting. You need to know about color temperatures and color compensation filters. Read your manual carefully before playing with this one!!!!
Color Space. Select sRGB usually. Adobe RGB is expanded color range that is designed for commercial presses and printers, the type we most likely won’t use. Even Miller’s and Mpix recommend sRGB, to ensure proper color calibration and rendition.
Picture style. These styles are created by Canon, but you customize and create new ones. Selecting one these allows the camera to create an image that matches your intentions. Landscape and portrait are 2 commonly used styles. Another one is Monochrome. When you shoot RAW, these settings can be changed in the DPP software. JPEGs cannot be easily corrected unless you do non-destructive editing or save an original file untouched. They use contrast, color, and levels to create a scene that will usually give you what you want.
It’s important to note here that none of the above settings can be used in the fully automatic modes.
Well, that’s today’s “What’s on the Menu.”
We’ll be exploring more settings in another post. I hope this has been of some help to you. Now go out and use your settings to get some great shots and make yourself proud! Remember to share your pics and post your questions at the Hohenfels Volks Facebook page, and or by commenting here!
Let’s return to our series on your camera’s menu. (Part 1 is here)
Press the menu button, and you should be on the first tab. Using your multi-controller or command dial, scroll to the second tab, shooting2.
In order, the settings are as follows:
The Exposure compensation/AEB. This allows the camera to change either the shutter speed or aperture to bracket or compensate for exposure. Adjustments are made in 1/3-stop increments. 3 shots are taken, allowing you to choose the best-exposed shot. This is cancelled at power down.
Auto lighting optimizer. This allows dark or low contrast images to be corrected for in camera when shooting JPG. You can set the amount here, or if shooting RAW, in Canon’s Digital Photo Pro application.
White balance. This setting allows you to select what color temperature to use for your white balance. By selecting the right one, whites will be white, and so on. Color balance can be quicker when the right selection is made. Refer to the post on color balance here.
Custom White balance. By using a custom white balance, you ensure proper whites in all shots taken in that specific lighting. Take a photo of a white object in the lighting you will use for your photo then select that image as your custom white balance source. This allows a more accurate setting of color balance tailored for the specific situation.
White balance shift/BKT. This one is a don’t play with it setting. You need to know about color temperatures and color compensation filters. Read your manual carefully before playing with this one!!!!
Color Space. Select sRGB usually. Adobe RGB is expanded color range that is designed for commercial presses and printers, the type we most likely won’t use. Even Miller’s and Mpix recommend sRGB, to ensure proper color calibration and rendition.
Picture style. These styles are created by Canon, but you customize and create new ones. Selecting one these allows the camera to create an image that matches your intentions. Landscape and portrait are 2 commonly used styles. Another one is Monochrome. When you shoot RAW, these settings can be changed in the DPP software. JPEGs cannot be easily corrected unless you do non-destructive editing or save an original file untouched. They use contrast, color, and levels to create a scene that will usually give you what you want.
It’s important to note here that none of the above settings can be used in the fully automatic modes.
Well, that’s today’s “What’s on the Menu.”
We’ll be exploring more settings in another post. I hope this has been of some help to you. Now go out and use your settings to get some great shots and make yourself proud! Remember to share your pics and post your questions at the Hohenfels Volks Facebook page, and or by commenting here!
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
What's on the Menu?
Welcome back, Volks! Autumn in Hohenfels is really starting to pick up, moving us faster and faster to winter. Let’s hope it’s not as rough as last year!
Today we're going to start a multi-part investigation of the camera menu. Since most of us shoot Canon, I’m going to use my camera’s menu for this series. I’ll break it down into the pages of my camera menu, but most cameras either have the same or similar menu settings. Some of what we discuss you may not have, and you may have some I don’t. For the purposes of this article, it’s assumed you have set your basics. I hope you’ll follow along in your manual and with your camera.
Press the menu button, and you should be on the first tab. It has a camera symbol with one dot. Your settings are Quality, Red-Eye on/off, Beep, Release shutter without card, Review time, Peripheral illumination correction, and Flash control.
The Quality selection allows you to choose your resolution. I shoot RAW, but you can select your desired resolution. You should be able to select RAW, RAW+JPEG, or JPEG and select the JPEG resolution. Since I shoot full Resolution RAW, I selected the RAW ICON and saved the setting by pressing the menu button.
The Red eye on/off is just what it says. Since red eye is caused by flash that is too close the lens and along the same axis, selecting this to on causes a series of pre-flashes to be emitted by the pop-up or on camera flash. Since we NEVER use the pop-up flash, and most on camera use of a flash should be from bouncing the light, you can leave this off.
Beep allows you to set the camera so that focus will beep, as will timer functions. It’s your choice!
Releasing shutter without card should be off. Having this turned on can lead to some serious disappointment when you’re out shooting. No card, no photos!
The review time sets how long the LCD displays the image after shooting.
Peripheral illumination control, if available, allows the camera to append data to the image that allows for the lens’s light drop off at the corners. Your lens has to be registered in your camera. If it is, setting this will allow corrections to be made by the camera. A good idea to have on. You can register and check which lenses are registered using your EOS utility.
The last control on this tab is the Flash control setting. This is a power full setting. When selected there are more settings available. Let’s explore them!
First up is Flash firing. If this is set to disable, not even an external flash will fire. Maybe you should enable this one!
Next is built in flash function. Unless you have the EOS 7D and use it to control off camera flash, or you use your pop-up, this should be disabled.
Then we have External flash function settings.
You have your flash mode. ETTL, manual, multi flash, TTL, automatic, and manual external flash settings. If your flash is mounted to your camera’s hot-shoe, E-TTL is a good choice to start.
Next is Shutter Sync. Selecting first will fire the flash when the shutter curtain begins to open. Setting it to second will fire the flash once at the start of the exposure and again right before the end. It only works at speeds slower then 1/30.
Then is FEC, or flash exposure compensation. This allows you to adjust the flash output to either brighten or darken the flash exposed areas.
E-TTL II should generally be set to evaluative
Unless you are using a Canon 580EXII or a 7D, the wireless function should be left alone.
Finally, there is the clear all flash settings function. Do you really want to clear your settings?
We’ll be exploring more settings in another post. I hope this has been of some help to you. Reading your manual will give you all you need in the menu areas and operations of your particular camera, so check it out!
Enjoy your week and enjoy the autumn colors, scenes, and events ahead. Keep shooting, and capture that masterpiece! Don't forget to share your pics and questions by posting at the Hohenfels Volks Facebook page, or by commenting here!
Today we're going to start a multi-part investigation of the camera menu. Since most of us shoot Canon, I’m going to use my camera’s menu for this series. I’ll break it down into the pages of my camera menu, but most cameras either have the same or similar menu settings. Some of what we discuss you may not have, and you may have some I don’t. For the purposes of this article, it’s assumed you have set your basics. I hope you’ll follow along in your manual and with your camera.
Press the menu button, and you should be on the first tab. It has a camera symbol with one dot. Your settings are Quality, Red-Eye on/off, Beep, Release shutter without card, Review time, Peripheral illumination correction, and Flash control.
The Quality selection allows you to choose your resolution. I shoot RAW, but you can select your desired resolution. You should be able to select RAW, RAW+JPEG, or JPEG and select the JPEG resolution. Since I shoot full Resolution RAW, I selected the RAW ICON and saved the setting by pressing the menu button.
The Red eye on/off is just what it says. Since red eye is caused by flash that is too close the lens and along the same axis, selecting this to on causes a series of pre-flashes to be emitted by the pop-up or on camera flash. Since we NEVER use the pop-up flash, and most on camera use of a flash should be from bouncing the light, you can leave this off.
Beep allows you to set the camera so that focus will beep, as will timer functions. It’s your choice!
Releasing shutter without card should be off. Having this turned on can lead to some serious disappointment when you’re out shooting. No card, no photos!
The review time sets how long the LCD displays the image after shooting.
Peripheral illumination control, if available, allows the camera to append data to the image that allows for the lens’s light drop off at the corners. Your lens has to be registered in your camera. If it is, setting this will allow corrections to be made by the camera. A good idea to have on. You can register and check which lenses are registered using your EOS utility.
The last control on this tab is the Flash control setting. This is a power full setting. When selected there are more settings available. Let’s explore them!
First up is Flash firing. If this is set to disable, not even an external flash will fire. Maybe you should enable this one!
Next is built in flash function. Unless you have the EOS 7D and use it to control off camera flash, or you use your pop-up, this should be disabled.
Then we have External flash function settings.
You have your flash mode. ETTL, manual, multi flash, TTL, automatic, and manual external flash settings. If your flash is mounted to your camera’s hot-shoe, E-TTL is a good choice to start.
Next is Shutter Sync. Selecting first will fire the flash when the shutter curtain begins to open. Setting it to second will fire the flash once at the start of the exposure and again right before the end. It only works at speeds slower then 1/30.
Then is FEC, or flash exposure compensation. This allows you to adjust the flash output to either brighten or darken the flash exposed areas.
E-TTL II should generally be set to evaluative
Unless you are using a Canon 580EXII or a 7D, the wireless function should be left alone.
Finally, there is the clear all flash settings function. Do you really want to clear your settings?
We’ll be exploring more settings in another post. I hope this has been of some help to you. Reading your manual will give you all you need in the menu areas and operations of your particular camera, so check it out!
Enjoy your week and enjoy the autumn colors, scenes, and events ahead. Keep shooting, and capture that masterpiece! Don't forget to share your pics and questions by posting at the Hohenfels Volks Facebook page, or by commenting here!
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